Black Headed Python Care Sheet

The Black Headed Python is a very distinctive snake with a black head. They are a medium sized snake that is found in Australia. The scientific name for this snake is Aspidites Melanocephalus.

Black Headed Python Description

The Black Headed Python is a beautifully coloured snake with a striped or brindled patterning. These colours can vary between shades of brown, black, dark grey and cream.

Their belly is generally white but often contains darker spotting. Their head is dark black in colour which is very distinctive. This colouration extends as far down as the snake’s neck, which is approximately 20 scales down. It is this black head that gives these snakes their name.

These snakes can grow quite large and can reach sizes of up to 9ft in length although most won’t reach this length. Females are generally larger than males with their average length being closer to 7ft.

Black Headed Python Care
Image Courtesy of Chris Applin

Natural Habitat and Distribution

The Black Headed Python is native to Australia and can be found in the Northern parts of the country. Their range extends right across the Northern coast of Australia, from Western Australia through the Northern Territory and into Queensland.

They share much of their geographical range with other common Australian species such as the Blue Tongue Skink, Ackie Monitor, Blue Tongue Skink and the Children’s Python.

These snakes prefer semi-arid environments and have adapted to thrive in hot dry conditions. They can be found at elevations of up to 200m above sea level and are generally found in dry scrublands and savannahs throughout their range.

They have adapted to tolerate a range of conditions and can also be found in more humid environments such as forests and agricultural land.

Black Headed Python Behaviour

The Black Headed Python is a nocturnal species meaning they are most active during the night. During the day, these snakes will hide away in burrows and termite mounds.

Their characteristic black head has a very important use. When they are cold during the day, they can stick their head out of their hiding place to absorb the heat from the sun. Black surfaces absorb more heat which allows them to maximise their heat gain while minimising any threat from predators.

Juveniles have many predators such as larger mammals and reptiles, including cannibalistic Black Headed Pythons. Adults have fewer natural predators but do come under threat from Dingoes and humans.

Black Headed Pythons as Pets

In captivity the Black Headed Python can live for 20-30 years. This is important to keep in mind before you consider taking home one of these snakes. You should not purchase a snake without thinking it through. It is important to think it through and find out as much information as possible about the species before making the purchase.

Hatchlings can sometimes take time to take to frozen thawed rodents. It is a good idea to purchase one of these snakes from a reputable breeder who is successfully feeding the snakes on frozen thawed rodents.

While hatchlings can be nervous, they will generally grow out of this with time and regular handling and can make a great pet snake. They are very intuitive animals and are a stunning, unique looking snake.

Black Headed Python Care Sheet
Image Courtesy of Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife

Feeding a Black Headed Python

In the wild, the Black Headed Python’s diet consists mainly of other reptiles. They commonly prey on lizards such as skinks which are abundant through out their natural range. They also feed on Geckos, Bearded Dragons, legless lizards and even small snakes.

However, in the wild their diet generally consists of frozen thawed rodents and once established, Black Headed Pythons are generally very good feeders. Hatchlings can sometimes need a bit of persuasion for the first few feeds but will quickly turn into good eaters.

Hatchlings can start feeding on fuzzy mice or appropriately sized rats. Food items should be slightly smaller than the largest part of the snake’s body. Juveniles to sub adults can be fed every 7 days.

Adults should be fed small meals every 7 days. As these snakes aren’t consuming as much energy for growth, they can be fed smaller meals.

In the wild, a Black Headed Python’s diet consists of lean meat from reptiles. They are more prone to fatty organ conditions in captivity due to a higher fat-based diet. Keeping meals on the smaller size for adults will help prevent this.

Black Headed Python Housing

An adult Black Headed Python requires a very large enclosure. To give these snakes adequate space, you will need an enclosure that measures around 5ft x 2ft x 2ft. These snakes can be housed in smaller enclosures, but a larger enclosure will give these snakes a more comfortable life.

Height isn’t too important for these snakes as they are primarily a terrestrial species. However, they will utilise branches and rocks, so it is a good idea to include some of these objects in their enclosure.

A hatchling Black Headed Python can be housed in a 2ft x 1ft x 1ft enclosure for around the first year of its life. The size of the enclosure will need to be increased as the snake grows.

It is recommended to house Black Headed Pythons individually, especially if you have two snakes that are different sizes. These snakes feed on other reptiles and they are known to be cannibalistic.

You should also include a hide at either end of the enclosure. This will ensure the snake can feel secure then thermoregulating. If a snake is stressed, it will choose the security of a hide over maintaining correct body temperatures.

You should also include a large water bowl in the enclosure. The snake will drink from the bowl, but they may also choose to bathe in the water, especially before shedding. It is important to regularly clean and change the water bowl as your snake will go to the toilet in it.

Light and Heat

A Black Headed Python should be kept in an enclosure with an ambient temperature of around 26°C (79F). The hot spot should be at least 32°C (90F) but this can get a little bit hotter.

As this is a terrestrial snake, the preferred method of heat is belly heat. This can be provided using a heat mat or heat cord. A good quality thermostat is required to ensure that correct temperatures are always maintained.

It is important to ensure your snake gets the correct day/night cycle. This can be achieved by turning off all lights in the room at the same time every night. You can adjust the number of daylight hours to match the seasons, giving them around 14 hours of light in summer and as little as 6 hours in winter.

Substrate

The Black Headed Python does well on a variety of substrates. A deep substrate is beneficial as these snakes like to burrow. Keep in mind that these snakes require low humidity levels so avoid substrates that will raise the humidity in the enclosure.

One of the best substrates to use is Aspen bedding. This substrate is loosely packed which will allow your snake to burrow. If water is spilled on a section of bedding simply discard and replace that section of substrate.

Paper towel or newspaper are also commonly used. The downside of these substrates is they do not facilitate burrowing. However, loose sheets will allow the snake to hide between layers and feel secure.

Shedding

A juvenile Black Headed Python will shed every 6 weeks or so. This will vary depending on how often the snake is fed and their growth rate. Adults and sub-adults will shed less frequently as their growth rate is reduced.

As these snakes like low humidity levels, they may have issues with shedding. If your snake has any stuck shed, soak them in warm water. This will loosen the skin and it can be easily rubbed off.

You can also include a damp hide in their enclosure. While they like semi-arid conditions, they do also occupy more humid environments in the wild. A damp hide will allow the snake to choose whether it wants to spend time in a an arid or humid environment.

Black Headed Python Handling

The Black Headed Python can be a skittish snake, especially when young. It is recommended to keep handling to a minimum until they are established feeders. Once feeding, it is recommended to handle them every couple of days to get them used to it.

Juveniles can be quite nervous animals and do have a tendency to bite if you try to take them out of their cage. They are not aggressive snakes; they are simply trying to defend themselves from a threat. However, once out of the cage they often become more relaxed.

Once your snake is established, you can start handling every second day or so. Frequent handling will allow the snake to become accustomed to you and they will know you are not a treat. Avoid handling on feeding day and for 24 to 48 hours after feeding.

Black Headed Python
Image Courtesy of Wild Nature

Breeding Black Headed Python’s

It is important to ensure your snakes are of adequate size before breeding them. Most females won’t be ready to breed until their 4th season while males may breed a little sooner.

Like most snakes, the Black Headed Python is a seasonal breeder. In the wild they breed during the winter and this seasonal change can be replicated in captivity to stimulate breeding.

In winter the number of daylight hours should be reduced to 6 hours. This can be artificially achieved by housing your snakes in a room with no natural light and only keeping the lights on for 6 hours a day.

Temperatures should also be gradually reduced at night until they reach around 20C. Day time temperatures should remain unchanged. Feeding should stop around two weeks before temperatures are reduced to ensure their last meal is fully digested.

This seasonal change should inform the snakes that breeding season has arrived. You will notice your males become more active as they search for a mate.

You can now introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. It usually doesn’t take long for courtship and mating to begin. You can rotate males between a pair of females or keep him with a single female. Just make sure you give him 2-3 days off each week to rejuvenate.

As the breeding season progresses, you will notice a slight bulge in the mid body of the female. This is the follicles starting to grow. You must continue to pair the snakes until ovulation has occurred. The male will generally loose interest in the female once she has ovulated. Once this happens, you can remove the male and restore heat.

While the female is gravid, she will seek heat and will spend most of the time curled up on her heat mat. Eggs will be laid around 60 days after ovulation with clutch sizes typically ranging from 8-12 eggs. However, clutch sizes of up to 20 eggs have been recorded but this is rare.

Incubation of these eggs can be a little tricky. Many people have success by suspending the eggs above the incubation media. This can be achieved by placing the eggs on a plastic mesh that sits on top of the incubation media.

This allows the eggs to benefit from the increased humidity (70%-80%) but the eggs themselves do not become wet. The substrate should be moist but not wet with many breeders choosing vermiculite for this purpose.

Opening the lid of the container every couple of days to check on the eggs will be enough to provide sufficient air exchange. Temperatures should be kept at around 30C for the duration of the incubation process.

Once babies hatch, they can be removed and setup in individual enclosures. They will still be absorbing the yolk from the egg so you will not need to start feeding them until they are about 2 weeks old.

It is recommended to do as much research as possible before purchasing your reptile. If you are planning to purchase one of these snakes, read as many Black Headed Python Care Sheets as you can in advance.