There are many great pet lizards that are readily available to buy as pets. The two most common lizards in the pet trade for many years were the Leopard Gecko and the Bearded Dragon. However, the popularity of the Crested Gecko skyrocketed and it quickly earned its spot as one of the best and most popular pet lizards on the market.
These amazing lizards were once believed to be extinct but since their rediscovery, their popularity and availability grew and grew as more and more people started keeping and breeding these gecko’s.
Their scientific name is Rhacodactylus Ciliatus. Rhacodactylus comes from combining the Greek words Rhakos (Spine) and Dactylus (Finger). Ciliatus is a Latin word meaning “Eyelash”, which refers to the crest of skin over the Gecko’s eyes.
Crested Gecko Description
The Crested Gecko typically grows to around 6 inches in length. The colour and pattern of these lizards can vary greatly. These colour and pattern morphs are one of the reasons the Crested Gecko has become so popular in the pet industry.
An adult male Crested Gecko will only weigh about 25g-30g while females can be heavier, weighting around 35g-40g. As these lizards can drop their tail, a tailless Gecko will weigh slightly less.
They have been nicknamed ‘Eyelash Geckos’ because they have protruding scales above their eyes that resemble eyelashes. They have a wedge-shaped head with two rows of spiny scales running from the head all the way down to the tail.
The Crested Gecko doesn’t have any eyelids. To keep their eyes from drying out, they will regularly lick their eyes with their tongue. This is completely natural behaviour for these Geckos, and it is regularly observed.
These lizards come in many different varieties of colors and patterns. Some of these ‘morphs’ can be found in the wild while others have been produced through selective breeding. Similar to the Ball Python, the endless array of morphs has skyrocketed the popularity of this reptile among breeders and hobbyists.
Natural Habitat and Distribution
The Crested Gecko can only be found on a small group of Islands known as New Caledonia. These islands are situated North-East of Australia in a remote section of the Pacific about halfway between Australia and Fiji.
This group of tropical islands, which is now a French territory, have a total of just over 18,000 km2. That means that they are similar in size to the country of Slovenia or the state of New Jersey.
These islands have a humid, sub-tropical climate which should be replicated in captivity. They are an arboreal species and will primarily be found high in the trees.
Crested Gecko Behavior
The Crested Gecko is a nocturnal species that can only be found amongst the dense foliage of the New Caledonian Rainforests. They are rarely seen in the wild due to the remoteness of their habitat and were believed to be extinct until the early 90’s.
They are an arboreal species and spend almost all of their time off the ground. The Crested Gecko is an excellent climber and can climb almost any vertical surface. They are also excellent jumpers and can leap to nearby objects with great accuracy.
They generate static electricity on their feet which is what allows them to ‘stick’ to almost any surface. This static also aids them when jumping, as they instantly stick to the first surface that they make contact with upon landing.
These Geckos are believed to be one of the best pet lizards to keep due to their peculiar nature and very docile temperament. These lizards rarely bite and often enjoy time out of their enclosure. Their docile nature and the ease of Crested Gecko care has elevated these lizards to one of the most popular species in the reptile industry.
Crested Geckos as Pets
The Crested Gecko is one of the best pet lizards due to their great temperaments and relatively easy-care requirements. While these lizards do require high humidity, all other aspects of Crested Gecko Care are relatively easy.
These lizards are very docile and can tolerate a large amount of handling. They also rarely bite and can be very interesting to watch climbing and jumping around. They will happily leap right off your hand onto a nearby surface.
One of the most appealing aspects to many people is that these lizards don’t “need” to be fed insects. They can live a long and healthy life feeding on a ready-made fruit mixture and supplements.
What do Crested Geckos Eat?
One of the most appealing aspects of Crested Gecko care to many people is that these lizards don’t have to be fed insects. They can live long, healthy lives on a diet consisting solely of Crested Gecko powder mixture.
However, it is important to understand that in order to provide the correct nutrients for your lizard, a varied diet with supplementation is critical. Crested Gecko powder can make up the bulk of their diet, but this should be combined with the occasional meal of insects.
The powder mixture is extremely easy to use. Simply mix a small amount with water until it has the consistency of yogurt and place it in the enclosure. Uneaten mixture can be removed the following day. You can also add vitamin and mineral supplements to the mixture to provide additional nutrients for your Crested Gecko.
It is estimated that about 50% of their diet in the wild is made up of insects. This should be replicated in captivity to ensure your lizard is getting the best Crested Gecko care possible. We recommend alternating between powder-based food and insects every second feed.
If you are serious about the health of your Gecko, it is not enough to just alternate between powder and insects. You also need to vary the type of insect you are feeding your lizard. This is because each insect will provide your Gecko with different levels of nutrients. Some commonly available insects you can feed your lizard include Black Crickets, Brown Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Mealworms, Waxworms and Silkworms.
We generally feed our Geckos every second day. We usually rotate between powder and insects every second feed. Alternatively, you can feed powder mix every evening and only offer one feed of insects on the weekend.
Both these methods work well. Powder mix should be introduced in the evening and removed the following morning. Uneated insects can also be removed if not eaten.
Crested Gecko Housing
A Crested Gecko requires a decent sized enclosure as they are active lizards. As this is an arboreal species, height is more important than length. A Crested Gecko can be comfortably housed in a 2ft x 1.5tf x 1.5ft enclosure.
The enclosure needs to be bigger if housing multiple Crested Geckos together. For example, a trio can be comfortably housed in an enclosure measuring 3ft x 2ft x 2ft with height being the most important aspect.
As the Crested Gecko is a territorial species, it is important to only house one male in each enclosure. A male can be housed with multiple females as long as there is adequate space for each animal. If the enclosure is too small, then the lizards will likely become stressed.
Most people house their Crested Gecko in a glass enclosure with a screened lid. This is a good option as they hold the correct amount of humidity fairly well. Humidity can be increased with heavy spraying and blocking off sections of the screened lid.
Another option is to use plastic or wooden enclosures. Plastic enclosures can be a good option, but wooden enclosures tend to warp when subjected to high humidity over time. If using a wooden enclosure, the wood must be adequately sealed with a non-toxic sealant.
Light and Heat
A Crested Gecko does not need to be kept as warm as many other types of lizards. They are a nocturnal species that live among dense, shaded foliage where it does not get too hot.
These Geckos do well at temperatures ranging from 21C-26C (70-80F). Night-time temperatures can drop as low as 16C (60F), providing they are brought back up again in the morning. If you live in a warm climate, artificial heating may not even be necessary if your home falls within these ranges.
If you live in a cooler climate, heating should be provided using an overhead heat lamp or ceramic bulb. As a Crested Gecko should be housed in a tall enclosure, there will be a natural thermal gradient as the lizard moves closer to the heat source.
Belly heat is not recommended for arboreal lizards as they do not spend much time on the ground. Overhead heat is far more beneficial for these geckos.
As this is a nocturnal species, they do not require UV lighting like other lizards such as the Bearded Dragon. This is another benefit to choosing a Crested Gecko over many other species of lizard.
If you choose to house your Gecko in a naturalistic setup with live plants, you may need to use full spectrum lighting to keep the plants healthy. In such cases, it is important to turn off the lights at night so the Gecko can benefit from a natural day/night cycle.
Substrate
A Crested Gecko will do well on a variety of substrates. It is important to use a substrate that holds humidity well without moulding. Choosing a substrate that can be easily spot cleaned is also beneficial.
Some commonly used substrates that are suitable for these Geckos include Coco Bedding, Cyprus Mulch and Orchid Bark. Many people combine these substrates to give a more natural look to the enclosure. Adding Sphagnum moss will help increase humidity while adding to the overall look of the enclosure.
Shedding
All reptiles shed their skin and the Crested Gecko is no different. These lizards are known for eating their shed skin so don’t be alarmed if you are not finding any skin in their enclosure. Many people question whether they are providing proper Crested Gecko Care when they see their pet eating their own skin, but this is completely natural.
The Gecko isn’t eating its skin because it is hungry, it is doing it for several other reasons. Re-growing the new layer of skin would have taking a lot of nutrients from the lizard. Consuming the previous layer will allow them to replenish some of these nutrients. It is also done as a defensive precaution. Leaving their scent behind in the form of a shed will alert potential predators that there is a potential meal nearby.
Other unusual behaviour you may notice around the time of shedding is the lizard’s ability to climb. While they can still climb, they can lose their “stickiness” as the outer layer of skin comes loose.
As with all reptiles, correct humidity is important to ensure a clean shed. Crested Gecko’s like high humidity and this should be maintained or even increased during the shedding process.
Check that the lizard has had a complete shed, common problem areas include around the feet and tail. If there is any remaining shed, place the Gecko in a small container with paper towel soaked in warm water. The warm water will help loosen the skin allowing it to be easily removed.
Handling a Crested Gecko
Crested Gecko’s are generally tame and easy to handle. It is quite rare to have an aggressive Crestie, but they can be a bit flighty, especially as juveniles. This can sometimes be a little intimidating for people who are used to slower moving lizards.
It is important to handle your Gecko regularly so they can get used to you. It is also beneficial for the lizard to get time out of the cage to explore and exercise. Handling sessions can vary from once a week to a couple of times a week. If your Crested Gecko seems to enjoy time out of the enclosure, frequent handling is recommended. If they are flighty and don’t want to be handled, reduce handling to once a week and gradually increase sessions as the lizard calms down.
These lizards are excellent jumpers and will readily leap from your hand onto a nearby surface. This is something you must be aware of during handling. Keep the lizard relatively close to the ground so they won’t have far to fall if they do jump. Don’t handle your Gecko near a balcony or open window as they could fall or escape.
These lizards don’t jump very far but they are quite fast. A short jump onto a windowsill is all that’s needed for one to escape. The lizard could easily dash out through an open window before you have time to react.
When handling, place one hand in front of the other and allow the Gecko to move about. If the lizard jumps, extend your hand out and allow them to grab again as they land. Crested Geckos are excellent at clinging onto surfaces and will easily land on your hand.
Avoid the urge to grab the lizard as they jump. This will likely result in you catching their tail. These lizards can and will drop their tail as a defensive strategy. Unlike many lizards, a Crested Gecko will not regrow their tail if it is lost.
Crested Gecko Breeding
A Crested Gecko can be easily sexed once it has reached maturity, but it is impossible to accurately sex juvenile specimens. There are many people who claim they can sex juvenile Crested Geckos, but this has proven to be extremely inaccurate.
A male Crested Gecko will develop a bulge at the base of its tail, while this bulge will be absent in females. As this bulge only develops when the lizard matures, visible sexing is impossible before this time.
You should wait until your Gecko’s are fully grown and mature before breeding. This is because breeding takes a lot out of the animals, physically and nutritionally. This is particularly true with females who must develop their eggs. A male can be bred with little risk at 25g-30g while a female can safely breed at over 35g.
This weight is usually achieved within about 18-24 months depending on diet and genetics. While a Crested Gecko matures before this time, we prefer to wait to ensure the lizards have adequate weight and nutritional stores before breeding.
Particular attention needs to be given to a breeding female. They use up a lot of energy and nutrients during the development and laying of eggs. Ensure they are maintaining weight and offered adequate vitamin and mineral supplements. A Crested Gecko can store calcium reserves in their throat. You can monitor these reserves to give you an indication whether the Gecko has enough reserves.
Once the Gecko’s are up to weight and mature, you can begin pairing. How you do this is up to you. Most people keep a breeding group together which usually consists of one male and two to three females. Another option is to rotate a male between enclosures consisting of one female, although this is less common with Crested Gecko’s. Do not keep multiple mature males together as they will fight.
These lizards are prolific breeders and providing basic Crested Gecko care requirements are met, they will generally readily breed in captivity. During mating, the male will often bite the female on the back of the head/neck. This behaviour is completely natural, and intervention is not necessary unless injury occurs.
Crested Gecko breeding season starts in Spring and can run right through until the end of Autumn. If they do not stop breeding during the winter months, remove the male from the female’s enclosure to allow her time to rest. It is recommended to give females 3-4 months off each year to ensure they don’t “burn out”. This time off is vital to allow the lizard to replenish their depleted vitamin and mineral stores.
During the breeding season, each female will lay 2 eggs every 40 days or so. These eggs will be laid on a moist substrate. If you are not using a moist, diggable soil such as coco fibre in the enclosure, a lay box will need to be provided. This can be as simple as plastic storage box filled with about 4 inches of damp Sphagnum Moss.
You will need to check this egg box regularly as they can quickly go bad if left unattended. If you see your female digging in the lay box, it is a good sign that she is getting ready to deposit eggs.
Once detected, eggs should be placed in an incubator. Fill a plastic container halfway with damp vermiculite or your preferred medium and place it in the incubator. The vermiculate should be wet to the touch but shouldn’t be so wet as to drip if you clump it together.
The lid on the container does not need any ventilation holes as adequate air exchange will occur from you checking on the eggs every few days. However, several small holes can be added if desired. The eggs should be positioned so about half the egg is in contact with the substrate and the other half is exposed to the air.
Crested Gecko eggs can be incubated at around 75F. It is ok if this temperature fluctuates by a couple of degrees. Eggs will usually hatch after about 60-70 days but this can take longer if incubation temperatures are cooler.
When hatching, refrain from removing the Gecko if they remain in the egg with just their head poking out. They will often stay like this for 24 hours, soaking up the remaining nutrients from the egg yolk.
They will usually shed within 24 hours of leaving the egg. You can then begin setting them up in their first enclosure. This should be a small and simple setup which will make them feel secure and allow them to find food easily.
A 5-gallon enclosure is perfect for juveniles. Paper towel is a good substrate to begin with to avoid the hatchlings from ingesting substrate while eating. One ore two plastic leafy branches will allow the Gecko to climb and feel secure. The final item needed is a moist hide box which will assist the growing lizard with shedding.
