The Garter Snake is a species of colubrid snake found in North and South America. There are currently 35 recognised subspecies of Garter snake. We are going to cover general Garter Snake care in this article which will cover a wide range of these subspecies.
They are a very adaptive species which is evident in their large geographical distribution. They also inhibit a wide range of habitats form woodlands and forests to more humid wetlands.
Garter Snakes are famous for their mating behaviour. When they emerge from hibernation, hundreds of snakes can be seen gathered together. It is not uncommon for more than 10 males to attempt to breed with a single female at the same time. This event is referred to as ‘mating balls’.
Garter Snake Description
With over 30 species of Garter Snake, it is impossible to provide a general description of the snake. In General, they are a small to medium sized snake with most species growing to between 1.5ft and 3ft in length.
The common Garter Snake is generally a dull black or brown in colour with yellow stripes running the length of their body. They are a slender snake with the average weight of a 2ft snake being only about 150 grams.
Natural Habitat and Distribution
Garter Snakes can be found throughout most of North and Central America. They are a very adaptable snake that can thrive in a wide range of habitats. They are commonly found in forest, woodlands, gardens, open fields and many other habitats.
Subspecies of Garter Snake found in Western USA tend to be quite aquatic and will spend much of their time in the water. For this reason they are often confused with Water Snakes. Garter Snakes found in the Eastern USA tend to be less aquatic and spend most of their time on land. However, all Garter Snakes are generally found close to bodies of water.
Garter Snake Behavior
Garter Snakes are experts at seeking out mates. They use Pheromone Scents to track mates and can easily distinguish between the scent of a male and a female. However, males are able to produce the female Pheromone which they use to divert other males from mating with a female.
If threatened a Garter Snake will musk. This involves the excretion of a foul smelling liquid from their vent along with faeces. This fluid stinks but it is not dangerous. You will simply just need to wash your hands.
It was long believed that Garter Snakes were non-venomous. It has recently been discovered however, that they contain a mild neurotoxic venom. This venom isn’t toxic enough to seriously injure a person and isn’t something to worry about.
Garter Snakes as Pets
Garter Snakes make great pets. They are an active species of snake that don’t grow too large. With over 30 sub-species, there is a large selection of colours and patterns to choose from.
They make a great first snake for beginners as they are a very hardy species that can tolerate the odd mistake. They are also generally very docile and are unlikely to bite.
They are also a great compliment to an existing snake collection. Owning a Garter snake is a completely different experience to owning many other common snake species such as popular constrictor snakes.
Feeding a Garter Snake
In the wild, Garter Snakes are opportunistic hunters and have a very varied diet. They are known to eat earthworms, snails, fish, eggs, amphibians and rodents.
In captivity they are usually good feeders and will readily accept frozen thawed mice or rats. These rodents should be of appropriate size. Hatchlings can be fed earthworms and feeder fish until they are big enough for pinky mice. The size of the food should be increased as the snake grows.
Juveniles can be fed every 5 days or so to facilitate growth. Adults can be fed an appropriate sized meal every 7 days. Gravid females have ferocious appetites and can be fed every couple of days.
You should avoid feeding your snake live prey. In captivity, a rodent can’t escape so it has no choice but to defend itself. They can cause injury to a snake by scratching and biting them.
If you have a Garter Snake that is a picky eater, there are a number of things you can do to try and get them to eat. Warming the rodent before feeding and wiggling it in front of the snake is usually the first thing to try.
You can also try changing the food. If your snake won’t accept mice you could try rats, gerbils or whole feeder fish for example. You could also try scenting the mouse by rubbing a fish against the mouse. Sometimes this stimulates a feeding response. Gradually reduce the amount of scenting until the snake is eating unscented mice.
Housing
Garter Snakes do well in a wide range of setups. Their housing requirements are very similar to that of a Corn Snake. A wooden or glass vivarium is great for these snakes.
These enclosures can be decorated as elaborately as you like. The minimum requirement is to ensure the snake has a fresh source of water and an adequate hide at either end of their enclosure.
You can also house these snakes in tubs providing the tub is large enough for the snake to comfortably move around in.
An adult Garter snake will be comfortable in a 2ft to 3ft long setup depending on their size. Juveniles can be housed in smaller setups but this will have to be upgraded as the snake grows.
Light and Heat
You should have a hot spot in the enclosure of about 86F (30oC). This can be achieved using a heat mat or overhead heat lamp. Whatever heating equipment you choose to use, it is important to control it using a high quality thermostat.
The cooler end of the enclosure can go as low as 75F (24oC) but it should not drop below this. This can simply be achieved by placing the heat source at one end of the enclosure.
A Garter Snake does not require UV lighting to process Vitamin D. However, if you choose to use one it should be turned off at night. The snake should have 10-12 hours of light each day to replicate a natural day/night cycle.
Substrate
A Garter Snake will do well on a wide range of substrates. As these snakes like to dig, loose substrate is most suitable. Shredded paper or loose newspapers are ideal as they are cheap, easy to keep clean and allow the snake to ‘burrow’.
You can also use more natural looking substrate such as aspen shavings, cedar bark, sand or coco-soil. Keep an eye on your snake during feeding if you use these substrates to ensure it is not swallowing some of the substrate.
If your snake is swallowing substrate you should either feed them outside of their enclosure or change the substrate to avoid impaction.
Shedding
Like all snakes, a Garter Snake will shed its skin. Juveniles will shed more often than adults as they are growing. Before they snake sheds, they will become very dull and their eyes will go grey. This is completely natural.
Having a water bowl large enough for the snake to bathe in will help with the shedding process. Snakes will often soak in the water bowl to loosen the skin before shedding.
You can also place a stone or piece of bark in their enclosure to assist with the process. The snake may rub against these items to further loosen the skin.
It is important to check your snake after it has shed to ensure there is no stuck skin. If the snake has any unshed skin, a warm bath will usually loosen the remaining skin and it can be easily removed.
Handling a Garter Snake
Gather snakes can become very accustomed to handling over time. It is best to purchase a juvenile Garter Snake so you can build up a ‘relationship’ with the snake over time. With regular handling the snake will learn that you are not a treat and will become more relaxed when handled.
Baby Garter Snakes are very fragile and need to be handled with care. You should hold the snake gently but firmly. Juveniles are known to musk when threatened so extra care should be given. It is advisable to wear gloves during the first few handling sessions to prevent the snake from defecating on your hand.
When picking up a snake you should gently slide your hand under the middle of their body to pick them up. Use the other hand to support the snake as they move through your hands.
You should keep in mind when handling a Garter Snake that they are not a constrictor snake like a Royal Python or Boa Constrictor. This means that they do not constrict and grip your hand like these snakes do. Therefore, it is important to provide them with extra support during handling.
Brumation
Garter Snakes brumate during the colder winter months. This is the reptile equivalent of hibernation but unlike mammals, snakes are not completely relying on their fat reserves to get them through the winter.
During Brumation, a Garter Snakes metabolism is greatly reduced due to the cold weather. This means that they are using very little energy. The snake will remain awake and mildly active but they will be slow and sluggish.
A Garter Snake will not eat any food during this period and will spend all of its time in a burrow where the temperature is a bit warmer. This is because their bodies are too cold to digest the meal and it will take a lot of energy to do so. Check out Thermoregulation in Reptiles for more information on the effects temperature has on a snake.
Breeding Garter Snakes
Garter Snakes are relatively easy to breed in captivity. However, there are several steps that need to be followed to ensure success. This is not only important to ensure successful breeding, but it is also important for the health of the snakes involved.
Most Garter Snakes reproduce once a year but there are some subspecies that will reproduce a second time. These snakes are ovoviviparous meaning the snakes are incubated inside the female in an egg-like membrane. The babies then ‘hatch’ inside the female and she will give birth to a litter of live snakes.
A Brumation period is used to begin the breeding season. The first step is to stop feeding the snake. This is usually done around the end of September. After about two weeks the lights should be turned off and the temperature reduced. For many species of Garter Snake the temperature should be reduced to at least 12oC. This depends on the particular species with more Northerly species requiring lower temperatures. It is very important to ensure the snakes last meal is fully digested before reducing temperatures.
Gradually restore temperatures in January or February. At this point feeding can also resume. A male should be placed in the female’s enclosure once they are warmed up.
Garter Snakes are usually ready to breed as soon as they are heated back up. You can keep the male and female together or you can rotate a male between two or three females. If you are rotating a male, give him two or three days off a week to allow him to regain his energy.
You will be able to tell when the female is gravid. Her appetite will increase significantly and her skin will begin to stretch. Depending on temperatures and sub-species, babies will be born 8-12 weeks after the female becomes gravid.
Babies should be removed from the female’s enclosure once born. It is a good idea to house them in individual enclosures so they can be closely monitored. A baby Garter will usually feed within a few days.
Many species of newborn Garter Snake are too small to eat pinky mice. These snakes can be feed small feeder fish such as Guppy’s or even Earthworms. Once the snake is large enough, they can be moved over to pinky mice.
